Wednesday, August 19, 2015

The Legendary Leadville Hostel

A quick post from the highest incorporated city in the US, Leadville! over 10,000 feet.  This weekend is actually the Leadville 100mile Ultramarathon - I will not be partaking but it has been super fun to chat with all the super athletes staying at the hostel.  I can't imagine running 100 miles straight and they can't imagine walking a marathon nearly every day while carrying a pack for 4-5 months.  Met Pappy - a Triple Crowner from 2002!!!  he started his adventuring at the age of 65 and is still going strong.

HUGE THANK YOU to Carol and Gary who put up with me in Grand Lake!

The weather has calmed a bit for now but it is easy to forget how crazy and miserable it can be to hike up high and be completely exposed while mother nature rages.  I'm moving steadily onward but have to admit I'm very much looking forward to laying on a couch for a week straight when I get back!  Getting closer!!!

Happy Trails!
~beads

Saturday, August 15, 2015

Never Summer Wilderness

What a name for a place! Never Summer was certainly a place that had fall in the air... in mid august.  The mountain meadows are starting to turn golden yellow, the high alpine shrubs are turning bright red... it is looking more like fall at 11,000 and 12,000 feet than I'd like to admit.  It certainly keeps me hiking to try and beat the snow!

Since last time I've completed southbound from the Great Basin of Wyoming into Colorado to Rabbit Ears Pass and spent an absolutely amazing time with Steamboat Star (miss Jayne).  She literally picked me up at the Post Office and knew exactly what a girl from the trail needed to relax and recoup.  Thank you girl!!!!

Then it was off through the Never Summer Wilderness and into Rocky Mountain National Park.  The trail actually goes through Grand Lake at the southern end of the park and there is an impressive Hostel called Shadowcliff that I HIGHLY recommend to anyone visiting.  WOW!

I still need to get used to Colorado's classic afternoon thunderstorms but so far I've had hail the size of peanut M&Ms and lightning so close there's no gap between flash and crack.  The vast majority of the trail is up at 11 and 12,000 feet, which makes navigation particularly challenging in the afternoons.
This state brings a whole new perspective to the mantra of the CDT: Embrace the Brutality!!!
Welcome to Colorado!!!

Trying new things... click on the link below to (hopefully) see a little video of me in the Winds!
http://youtu.be/P0VYWMcQFpc

Happy Trails!
~beads





Friday, August 7, 2015

Home Stretch

This year, many of the thru-hikers have had to patch together their hike because of challenging weather patterns.  Some hearty souls did hike through the snow, some continued on a lower route, and some avoided it all together by either waiting for going somewhere else on the trail to hike while the snow sorted itself out.  My 2 previous thru-hikes were straight through, no flipping or flopping like this year.  The decision was difficult was SO worth it in the end.  I now sit in Saratoga WY and plan to head to Battle Pass tomorrow to start my last chunk south into CO and back down to Ghost Ranch.

I just went through the Wind River Range: truly the best kept secret in Wyoming.  Massive crags of solid granite towered around me with endless high alpine lakes and glacial valleys.  Rivers glowed turquoise from glacial runoff.  The vegetation was thick and rich down below treeline with mosses and old man's beard clinging to every surface.  To get a better look check out my new video (getting posted soon) by clicking on the Donate Now button to your right.

Thanks for reading =-)
Happy trails!!!
~beads

Saturday, August 1, 2015

Wyoming - Forever West



The last few days in Montana and Idaho proved to be one last hurrah by mother nature to make sure we don't forget our time there.  A 32 mile day to get up and over Mt Taylor only to sleep on a tiny saddle with wind howling and driving rain all night.  The next day was cold and wet, Kramers and I bushwhacked through miles of thick willows as I was wearing nearly everything I had with me.  We did, however, see 3 beautiful moose who were also out enjoying the brisk moist weather.  What a treat!

Thru-hikers love state lines.  We tend to mentally break down the monumental task of a thru hike into smaller pieces and state lines are a great goal.  I had been hiking in Montana since June 10th and it was absolutely awesome, but getting to Wyoming was a great feeling of accomplishment.  The MT/WY line is in western Yellowstone National Park and we literally get to walk in the back door of the most visited national park in the country.  The backcountry trails are used very little but when we get closer to a parking lot we can hear the traffic, then the trail suddenly gets 6 feet wide, then we can literally smell the bug spray of the day hikers before we see them.  Some tourists are very happy to say HI and GOOD MORNING but there are many who are not interested in making eye contact with scruffy backpackers.  Kramers, Handstand, MachineGun, and I arrived on the boardwalk smack in the middle of Biscuit Basin and spent 2 hours strolling 2 miles toward Old Faithful, weaving around sapphire blue hot springs and sputtering geisers.  It was incredible.  I had never visited Yellowstone before so it was a perfect opportunity to relax and play tourist for a little while.  Watch Old Faithful erupt. Cruise through the visitor center and read all the exhibits.  See the ranger programs.  And of course explore the super historic Old Faithful Inn.  For a moment I didn't feel like a hiker, sitting in the Old Faithful Inn by the fireplace with a Brandy Alexander while a fiddle player serenaded us from the 2nd floor balcony overlooking the massive central atrium.  Dusk came far too quickly and we had to scurry off to our campsite for the night.

After Old Faithful Village we continued through the park for another 50-ish miles before hiking into the Teton Wilderness.  We got hit with yet another weather system that was even colder than the last.  Isn't it July?!?! There was an entire day that didn't make it past 46 degrees and at night went into the 20s... again, I was wearing everything I had to stay warm.

The sun came out and warmed our faces, dried out tents, and we walked on into the Teton Wilderness.  A beautiful, remote area that was clearly heavily used by horse packers.  Sometimes hikers get frustrated with having to walk on endless uneven dried mud but in reality, we love horse country.  The trails are well maintained and easy to follow. We even get labeled intersections!!! What a treat!! 

A favorite little place was called Two Ocean Pass and the "Parting of the Waters".  There is a creek that literally hits a rock and splits into Atlantic Creek and Pacific Creek.  Yup, we threw in a stick to see which way it would go =-)

The next section from Togwotee Pass down into the Wind River Range will mark 2000 miles for me.  It's exciting.  Then I hitchhike around the Great Basin (I hiked that back in early June) and head into CO.  It's hard to believe I "only" have 800 miles left...

Thanks for reading =-)
Happy Trails!
~beads



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Smile Often :-)

Thursday, July 23, 2015

last town stop in montana

After a stunning 800 miles on montana it is finally almost time to hike through Yellowstone National Park!

Feeling good out of Leadore, the weather has been a little finiky and by the time i made it 100 miles to route 15 into Lima i was very much ready for a rest day. Other than almost getting sprayed by a skunk it has been the same awesome trail.

Once i get to Wyoming there may not be many opportunities to update my blog...

Happy trails!
Beads


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Smile Often :-)

Wednesday, July 15, 2015

Bannock Pass - Leadore, ID

Traveling through the Bitterroot Mountains along the Idaho-Montana border has been absolutely incredible.  High mountain meadows, open tree groves, and wildflowers still holding on.   This section of the CDT as we head down to Wyoming has a reputation for what hikers call PUDDING. That is: Pointless Ups and Downs.  Well built trail is something that takes countless volunteer hours to construct and the better a trail is built the less a hiker notices.  In this area the CDT often follows old 4wd roads and for some reason this seems to imply that we go straight up and straight down every little pointy bit along the Great Divide.  Definitely not easy on the feet/knees/legs of any hiker! I also find myself pausing to ponder the thought of HOW exactly someone might actually drive up and down these paths...  they are so steep I can't imagine any outcome other than flipping right over!! 

Other than the extreme fire danger that surrounds us, the weather has be quite agreeable.  I have not been directly effected by any wildfires despite frequent lightning strikes in the area.  After the insane heat wave from 2 weeks ago, the temperatures have settled down.  Recently, however, we have been dealing with daily thunderstorms and rain.  Nothing too disheartening but it sure does keep you on your toes.  Luckily there has been at least a small window every day to dry out my tent, other than that I basically just keep hiking in the rain.  It has its own beauty I think, its own challenges as well. 

Thanks for reading!!!

Happy Trails,
~beads 






Thursday, July 9, 2015

half full

Greetings from sula! A small store with rockin breakfast, hot showers, good beer selection, and mini golf. What more could a girl want!?! The recent trail took us through the Anaconda-Pintler Wilderness and some of the most gorgeous views yet. After the sweltering heat and road walking through Anaconda, I definitly needed some good high alpine meadows and exciting brisk thunderstorms on top of 9000 foot passes. We got it.

Sometime in the recent past i crossed my personal half way point!!!  It has been a more challenging trail than the AT and the PCT for many reasons. Difficult weather decisions and chronic foot problems are hopefully a thing of the past. I have never had foot pain like this before and walking 25 to 30 miles a day can really wear on you mentally. There were definitly days i wanted to go home. I'd  try not to complain but I'm sure they saw it on my face and my ginger steps down hill. Every time the pain was almost too much Papi or Kramers would offer a foot massage at the end of the day.  I am one lucky girl. The entire time there was no swelling, which means no broken bones, just soft tissue... for now my feet are much better. I really hope they stay this way!

I think every long distance hiker has mixed feelings about halfway. It is a fantastic accomplishment that anyone would be very proud of. 1300 miles. An amazing life of sleeping outside and walking through some of the most spectacular wild and remote places that our awesome country has to offer. There is a small voice in my head that wonders if I'll make it all the way. Wonders how hard it will be. Wonders if i have the mental strength to get up and walk a marathon every day for another 2.5 months. Then i remember why I'm out here. The journey.

Thank you!!! To all who have made it possible for me to be out here! I truely hope to repay the favor one day. All my animals are surely having a grand time without me :-) wishing you all much peace and love this summer.

Happy Trails!
Beads



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Smile Often :-)